In a Queens Quay condo overlooking the Gardiner Expressway, the kitchen fills with the warm scent of cumin and coriander. Indian food expert Shashi Jain (who owns the condo) is demonstrating how to dry roast spices to maximize flavour [see recipe below]. "Roasting them makes them easier to grind and it brings out the flavour," she explains, passing around a small frying pan filled with coriander seeds so that everyone standing in her cozy kitchen can catch a whiff. She puts the roasted spices into an electric coffee grinder. "Spices are more flavourful when they're fresh ground like this," she says. "Just don't use it to grind coffee afterwards!"

After the spices are ground together, she pulls a box of store-bought spice mix from her cupboard and passes it around so everyone can smell the difference. Fresh-ground spices are the clear winner.

Jain is teaching a vegetarian Indian cooking workshop to a small group of eager students who scribble notes on the recipes handed out at the beginning of class.

Continue reading for the rest of the article, a spice recipe and another photo. Reprinted by permission from "Getting intimate with Indian food" by Alison Broverman, National Post, October 04, 2008. 

Dominique, who is attending Jain's class for the first time, is here because she recently spent some time in India and came home craving the food. "There are great Indian restaurants in Toronto, but I just think it will be nice to be able to prepare it for myself," she says.

Jain runs regular sessions for those looking to learn the basics of Indian cooking ($225 for a four-week session). She also teaches one-off workshops with different themes each week, such as Samosa Day or South Indian Day ($75 per workshop).

Jain first came to Canada in 1980, and moved to Toronto almost 10 years ago. She lived in Newfoundland for a number of years, where she ran a restaurant and, according to her website, she was one of the first people to introduce Indian food, culture and yoga to Newfoundland.

Because Jain teaches out of her own kitchen, attendance is limited to no more than five or six students at a time, so her classes feel very intimate and hands-on: As soon as you arrive, she'll set you to work chopping something, or give you something to grind up with a mortar and pestle (a task coveted by most of her students). Her fridge displays photos of her grandchildren and a bulletin board on the wall is covered with photos of current and former students.

Because of the homey vibe, it feels less like a traditional cooking class and more like learning to cook in a relative's kitchen. Jain doesn't get ahead of herself and answers confusing questions about what's coming next with a patient "You'll see."

She also frequently offers up useful tips and words of wisdom. "Use a very soft hand," she counsels Dominique as she fries up her first dosa.

And, of course, each class includes plenty of eating, as Jain is a big believer in tasting as you go along. - For a workshop schedule, or to reserve a spot, call Shashi Jain at 416- 593-7546 or visit indiancooking.ca.

Garam Masala
(mixed balancing spices)

1/2 cup black cardamon seeds
4-6 cinnamon sticks (broken into small pieces)
1/4 cup whole cloves
1/4 cup black peppercorns
1 tsp nutmeg powder
4-5 bay leaves

In a small heavy frying pan, roast the ingredients one at a time on medium heat, stirring constantly until dry and crisp.

Grind to a fine powder using an electric coffee grinder or mortal and pestle. Tip: It is a good idea to purchase a second coffee grinder and only use it for spices and seeds.

Store in an airtight jar. Fresh garam masala will keep for up to 12 months in the refrigerator.